Monday, September 27, 2010

Keepin' on Keepin' on


Monday September 27th

This is my first entry from Bangor and I have been here an even two weeks. Everything is wonderful and much greener than I had expected! Unfortunately, I have been sick with a nasty little cold that just doesn't seem to want to leave me be since arriving here. So, all my energy has been going towards sleeping, drinking tea, and trying to get better! Despite the cold though, I have managed to do some really fun things and have met many wonderful people.

My first day here was pretty crazy. It started with Annika, Alaina and I, once again, crammed into Annika's car speeding down the Autobahn in the poring rain, and I mean POURING rain. This stuff was torrential. When we got to the Hamburg airport at 6 a.m. I had to sprint to my terminal in order to catch my plane to Manchester (which I barely made.) Once on the plane tho, I had a brief panic attack because I wasn't sure if it even was the right plane (which is totally bogus because that is nearly impossible to pull off... anyways blame it on lack of sleep.) I got into Manchester at a quarter to eight and was able to make it to customs before too long. The line (queue) was such a funny sight, there were a number of families who had just returned from vacation (holiday) and were sporting sandals, big, hibiscus print shorts, dresses, and shirts, super brown tans and seashell jewelry all around me. I must have been quite a sight myself in my fleece jacket, long pants and scarf. When I finally got to the customs desk there was this cranky lady who put me through the ringer and even threatened to "sit me down" because I didn't have "the right" information... anyways, eventually I got through and collected my bearings and bags. I got to the train station with a little bit of time to spare found myself some fruit for breakfast, found a seat on the platform, and let my surroundings settle in.

I boarded the train to Crewe (Crew) at nearly nine and sat next to another student, Andrew, who was from Shanghai and was on his way to go study for a year exchange in Salisbury. He was really funny and definitely took the edge off of being so tired and on a new continent. When we got to Crewe I was only seconds late for my train to Bangor, which as it turns out was quite serendipitous! You see, I wasn't the only student bound for Bangor who missed the train. Diego, from Costa Rica, had also missed the train and was just as ticked as I was. We sat together waiting for a different train that would bring us to Chester and talked about University and what we were doing for the week we had before orientation. Soon enough the train came and we boarded. Chester was just a hop and a skip away but we had to wait yet again for another train that this time would take us directly to Bangor. I met a very nice Irish woman while I was waiting with Diego. Kathleen Greene is, to me, the quintessential Irish-lady. She must have been in her early sixties, gray hair, spunky, loud, but looked like a cuddly grandma-type that you just want to hug. She asked me how my trip had been thus-far and what I was going to do in Bangor. I told her that everything had gone smoothly except for the customs woman who still had me shaking in my Keens. Her response was something like "Oh, don't you listen to her, love. She was probably one of those poor souls who was put on the midnight to 9 a.m. shift and they are never pleasant folk. Plus, I always say in a situation like that 'can't you just be nice? We are all trying to do our best and get along... just smile and be kind to other people, we are all just trying to do our best.' " How about that, just what I needed! I am beginning to think that I have really good luck with finding mom and grandma types when I need a little bit of encouragement or cheering up. So, I took a deep breath of damp air as the train rolled in and got my bags together. Kathleen and I sat very close to each other in the train car, she was sitting with another gray-haired grandma type and I was sitting with a school teacher from the North of Wales who, believe it or not, had studied Waldorf herself for some time. She and I talked about that until she had to get off. Kathleen and I then started up a conversation about knitting which led me to ask about the best place to get yarn in Wales and Ireland. Kathleen made sure that I was well prepared with a list of the best places in Dublin to find wool and fisherman's sweater patterns. She also gave me her address and made sure that I was able to understand her writing. We talked about knitting while the train flew along the green country side of North Wales, past small towns dotting the coast, and pastures filled with happy sheep that seemed to stretch on forever. The mountains popped into view eventually, rising and falling across the horizon until finally plunging into the Irish Sea. When we finally reached Bangor Kathleen wished me good luck and told me to make sure that I took care and had a fabulous time. I stepped off the train and into the bright, warm and welcoming sunshine that was my new life in Wales.

...

Everything has gone smoothly since arriving here, aside from this piece of crap cold. I spent a few days at a nice B n B on the main road and was able to walk all around the downtown, orienting myself amidst the huge mountains and the sea. The first day I was invited over to my mentor, Bryn Tomos's, house for dinner. The Tomos's, Bryn, Marian, Cartin, Rhys, and Gwenno are lovely people. They welcomed me into their home and fed me an amazing dinner. It was so nice to have a soft place to land after such an intense day of traveling (with a cold!) They offered me a place to stay before the dorms opened on Saturday, which I graciously accepted.

Bryn is a fascinating person who knows a lot about Welsh education and speaks fluent Welsh himself. On the walk back to the B 'n B where I was staying he filled me in on the past fifteen years of changes that Wales has seen in their education system. For a long time the Welsh language was suffering greatly in schools across the country-- maybe a lack of cultural interest but mostly due to the shrinking number of Welsh speakers and the disbanding of cultural ties-- Welsh was dying out. In the past fifteen years tho, there has been a rebirth of the language and many schools have began teaching either some courses in Welsh or, in some cases, like at the school where Bryn's children go, exclusively in Welsh. This was a major win for Welsh speakers, the country, and Welsh culture. It isn't often that a language can rebound like that when the statistics today say that one language dies out every two weeks... it is truly amazing.

On Friday I went to school with Catrin, Bryn's eldest daughter who is in her final year of school. It was a really fun day! I hung out with Catrin's cute high school friends and went to some classes with her (and let me tell you, I am still no whiz at Chemistry.) The school was pretty small but very well-kept. It was grades 5 to 12 I believe, so you can imagine all of the energy in that place! I was especially flattered to be asked by the head teacher of the school to speak to one of her classes, a sort of "Wales and Beyond" class that dealt with the environment, other cultures, different countries, and education all over the world. They asked me about my education in the states and how Wales was precieved by Americans. It was really funny to hear some of the questions that the students had for me after we were out of class: "Was your high school like the one in 'High School Musical' ?" or "Were there cheerleaders at your school who were like the ones in 'Mean Girls' ?" Yes... I tried to be as honest as possible without laughing too hard but we all thought it was good fun.

That night, after a long day of high school, Catrin, her boyfriend, Sean, Gwenno, and I watched "Calendar Girls" and for the first time I picked up on some inherently British things like Marks & Spencer (which is right down the street from where I am living), Yorkshire (which I can locate on a map now), etc. In place of popcorn we needed of course, as a night cap, to have about three cups of tea each with milk and honey.

Hopefully I will be able to write again soon, I don't want to get out of the habit of posting things!

Take care!

Much love,
Zoe




Monday, September 13, 2010

London & Hamburg




A bit late, but here they are. Blogs from the past two weeks of travel... tidbits of this and that, people, and places.



Tuesday September 7th

Heathrow airport is really cool but really big. It was very busy when we arrived at 7:30 am and was a bit overwhelming to say the least especially after such a long trip. Alaina and I splashed some water on our faces in the bathroom and then found our way to a nice little café. I have a few words to say about breakfast after a transatlantic flight and that is that there is nothing like a piping hot cup of mint tea and a plate of crispy prosciutto and over easy eggs when you haven't slept in twenty eight hours, I'm telling you!! The layover in Heathrow would have been horrific if it had not been for such a heavenly breakfast. Thoroughly sated and ready for the next leg of our trip, Alaina and I moseyed around the airport until check in at noon and then promptly went to the nearest coffee kiosk. We had a long while to wait for our plane to Germany so in the interim we sat and let our eyes and thoughts wonder about.The plane trip to Hamburg was totally uneventful... I fell asleep as soon as I buckled my seatbelt and woke up only as we were about to land. The minute we landed I was so excited to see Anni I nearly bulldozed my way out of the plane. It was so surreal to finally be in Hamburg and to know that one of my dearest friends who I hadn't seen in over two years was finally within hugging range. It was unbelievable, the feeling of seeing Anni-- she is nearly the same as when she left Marquette two years ago and sweeter than ever-- this dream was finally real.

Love, Zoe



Wednesday September 8th

I feel like such a schlubby mess. My god. Whoever said "traveling is easy," I'd like to give a good smack up-side the head.

Last night I fell into bed at 11:30 pm, nearly thirty eight hours after having left home. Everything from the last day and a half is a complete blur and somehow today I woke up in Germany in one piece.

Anyways, I'm skipping ahead.

...Let's rewind...

So, Alaina and I got to the Hamburg airport and found our bags, we walked forever through the twisty halls and finally found a very smiley Annika Lorenz and JoJo Gress waiting for us; I nearly melted with excitement into Annika's arms, it was like that perfect movie moment where everyone is reunited and everything is good again...

We lugged our suitcases out to Annika's not-so-big-suitcase-friendly car --Alaina and I just stood there and laughed because it seemed nearly IMPOSSIBLE that four healthy sized girls and two massive suitcases would fit into this Barbie-sized automobile-- to make a long story short, by some twist of fate we managed to fit everything and everyone inside. By this time the sun was riding just about as low in the sky as the car was to the pavement, and casted a warm, peachy color onto everything in sight. It felt so right to be there, in a tiny little car speeding down the Autobahn, with so much to look forward to. That evening, after we had deposited our luggage in Annika's flat, we were introduced to practically every member of Annika's immediate family-- they are some of the most lovely, smiley, kind people I have ever encountered. Anni's mom, Tina, made sure that we ate a good dinner; we had big plates of schnitzel with remoulade, rutabegga mash and potatoes that nearly put me into a coma. We were able to call home to let our parents know that we had made it safely. I hadn't talked to anyone since Detroit so it was really nice to hear my dad's voice when I dialed home. That night I fell right to sleep with a smiling heart and a very happy tummy.

Today we are going by train with Annika's sweet freind, JoJo Gress, to the bakery where Annika works just outside of Hamburg. I'm really excited for the first day here but the awe of being here in the first place is hard to shake away. Those first couple of seconds when I was just coming out of sleep were so amazing! I had to reassure myself that, "yes, I am in Germany. Finally."

Love, Zoe


Yummy desserts at Rholfs Backerei in Hamburg- I'm not going to say how many of these I tried...




Friday September 10th

The past two days have been absolutely fantastic! It is as if the stars have aligned or something because I feel so right. I keep thinking of a line in "Eat, Pray, Love" where the author writes "Even in my underwear I feel different," and that is exactly how I feel here. Everything is exciting, the people, the street lights, the language. Alaina and Annika are so much fun to be around, they are literally the dream-team of roommates. It is funny but I feel like I've been walking on a big, bouncy, European cloud since Tuesday.

We have done so much walking that last night I felt like my entire body was made of rubber cement. I love walking, but sheesh! 11 am to 9 or 10 pm... that's walking! We have seen so much of Hamburg in just three days and there is even more to see. Every morning I have woken up and have had to keep my heart from racing right on out of my chest, I feel so exhilarated and aware of everything around me.

This weekend we are planning on going to The Kietz, the red light district of Hamburg, where there are a number of discos and clubs. Each time Annika has mentioned the Kietz she has had this big, tricky smile on so there is no doubt that it will be... different. We also hope to take a bus tour of downtown Hamburg and the surrounding areas which will be the first real "touristy" thing we will have done since we arrived. We shall see where the weekend takes us!

Love, Zoe



Monday September 13th

Weekend accomplished!

Saturday was such a blast! We got up and met Marcel who took us to Annika's bakery were we had lunch and some coffee. We collected Anni once her shift was over and drove downtown to have a look around. We stumbled out into this huge plaza where a Japanese festival was taking place with live music, dancers, and huge suspended balloons that looked like Jellyfish. We sat by the water for some time admiring the swans and funny gray geese that have such a darling waddle. It was the perfect lazy Saturday afternoon, perusing side streets and markets, stopping here and there to take pictures or get a coffee.

Even the bus tour of Hamburg was relaxing -- we were shown all the nooks and crannies of the city from the second story of a red, double decker bus. Marcel, Annika, Alaina and I sat in the very back and watched the city whizz past. I can't begin to explain how perfect this afternoon felt with the sunshine spilling in through the windows and the air slightly ripe with the smell of Autumn. I feel so calm and happy, this is just what I needed...

^The Rathausmarkt, not a becoming name but very pretty!

The laziness continued throughout the rest of the day, we ate dinner and slowly got ready for our not so "chill" evening out. The Kietz was definitely an experience, one that I will need a few years to recover from for sure. We left at nearly half past eleven pm and took the train to the Reeperbahn where we were immediately swallowed up in the nightly commotion of the Kietz. We went to a number of discos and pubs with really good music and wacky decor. This place was so surreal-- there were a few times when I felt like I had been placed down on the set of a music video. We danced and danced until our feet couldn't take it anymore and our throats had run dry from yelling above the music; by three am we had had our fill. We hurried back to the train station and were able to catch the last train back home to Pinneberg.

Today is packing day. Alaina and I have flights out of Hamburg early in the morning tomorrow and by the sate of Annika's room you wouldn't think we were going anywhere. I am really sad to be leaving Germany, I feel like I could stay here forever and never get bored...

The other day Alaina and I were sitting in the bakery sipping on coffees and watching the cars pass; this goofy toddler was sitting in his stroller and making these funny faces at us while chewing on whatever he could get his hands on. Alaina and I were so smitten with this little guy. His mom struck up a conversation with us when she noticed we were speaking English to each other and asked what we were doing in Germany. We went through the whole airport customs schpeel, "We're going to school in the UK," "visiting some friends before the semester starts," "We love Germany..." da de da de da. As it turns out this woman had lived for some time in New York working for Nivea and had traveled extensively around the states. She was very nice and didn't mind at all that we were paying more attention to her silly kid than to her. We had a very nice conversation and just as she was getting ready to go she said "Enjoy Germany, girls. Just make sure you don't fall in love with a German boy." Smiling and with a twinkle in her eye she walked away. I have held this encounter so close to me the past couple of days. It was one of those delicious incidents you dream of having where a total stranger enters your world briefly but leaves you lit up and smiling for the rest of the day. I don't know if it was her adorable toddler, Marvin, or if it was her advice but, I have taken that happening to heart and, instead of falling in love with a German boy, I have gone and fallen in love with the light and the air of this country. I can't escape the feeling of this place, the sense of total satisfaction and peace with myself and the encouragement to go forth with what I'm setting out to do in my life. Something has been set right by my going away and taking a chance with my future. Taking this opportunity to study in another country and see places that I have dreamt about for so long could very easily steer my desires and passions in an entirely new direction.

Before I got to Germany I couldn't picture myself on this adventure, the things I would do, the places I would go, the people I would meet, but now I am here and in love with everything around me. I feel almost desperate to stay but also hungry for what lies ahead.

I think that this visit to see Annika and Finn, to meet Marcel and JoJo and Annika's family, was long overdue. There is not one minute that I regret or one ounce of me that feels this trip was anything but perfect. I know that I will come back, hopefully very soon. Germany and I are not through just yet...


Love, Zoe

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

London Calling

Plane Ticket a
Suitcase a
Passport a
Excitement a


Monday started with a pounding heart. Once I checked into the airport in Marquette the excitement started to kick in. The flight from Marquette to Detroit only took about 50 minutes, most of which I spent talking to a woman from Indianapolis, MI who married a Welshman and lived close to Bangor, in Cardiff, for some time. It was a delightful conversation aside from the few sentences where she said that the weather sucked and the food was awful (I later realized that these remarks were in part due to her having split in a nasty divorce from her Welsh husband). Oh well, that can't rain on my parade, literally.

Upon getting off of the plane in Detroit I made my way to the terminal for the next flight to Heathrow. I sat, got a coffee, some hummus and tabouli, a paper, and sat. I called Celena, happily situated in here little artist's studio in Eugene, OR, and we caught up. It was so wonderful to hear her voice. (Luff you gurll!) After about an hour three southern bells showed up at the Heathrow terminal and sat directly across from me. We struck up a conversation after I heard one of them mention Swansea University which is only 60 minutes South of Bangor. So these cute Southern girls and I got to talking. We shared emails, school info., hometowns, how we heard about our programs and why we decided to go... which lead to a wonderful lunch.

I got a call from a very excited Alaina Nesbitt shortly after we got done with lunch. I went to meet her in that super cool tunnel in the Detroit Metro Airport with the changing lights and the space-age music (this is were the slow motion kicked in and the sappy music started to play)- when we finally saw each other we practically bounced apart due to momentum at impact! So, as you can imagine, we did a lot of girly squealing and pinched ourselves to make sure we weren't day dreaming. It was so wonderful to see my Irish lass again...

At 6:55 we boarded the plane to London. It was a very long flight with lots of British accents floating around in the air as I attempted to find a comfortable position to sleep in. Alas, I didn't sleep a wink. Not at all. ZERO. But I was surprisingly fine when we landed in London at 7:30 am UK time (2:00 am Marquette time). Customs took forever. Everyone in line wore the same expression of sleep deprived-aggravation. When it was at last my turn the small British man behind the desk said "Ello, Love! First trip to London is it?" (Mmhm, exactly! ) I just kind of shook my head yes and forked over my university papers and stood still until he said "Alright, then. 'Ave yourself a wuundaaaful time. Don't study too 'ard!"

I love Britain already.


Love, Zoe